Thursday, January 14, 2016

Airspy, Spyverter, Hermes, and HackRF Using Leo Bodnar GPSDO



Leo Bodnar has developed a VERY NICE Clock Reference (I would call a GPSDO) which I recently purchased from Force12Inc they sell two of them this one, and this one (with a custom low phase noise xtal).

The Airspy SDR accepts a 10 MHz clock input.  I've been using mine until recently in a modified manner where I used the ADC1 direct input (which bypasses the on board filters, and AGC) to input the 9 MHz IF output from my Yaesu FTDX-5000.  I didn't really like this method since it bypassed some important areas when there are strong signals on 50 MHz.  It would frequently overload the Airspy (which I love btw), so I have a 30dB step attenuator in line to help control this easily.

Anyway, now that the Spyverter is available, (and it's a VERY VERY nice upconverter) I wanted to try to go back to a more standard method of getting the 9 MHz IF out into the Airspy.  Unfortunately the Spyverter (even the TCXO version) suffers (slightly) from xtal drift.  I discovered this immediately as this was the reason I had abandoned use of upconverters in the past.

I emailed Youssef from Spyverter asking him if he was aware of a work around for the drift issue.  I'm 99.9% of the time a CW operator, and this drift means that I'll be close, but NOT ON when I click on a CW signal in HDSDR.  Depending on the drift of the moment.

He mentioned that they had tested removing the xtal on board, and feeding 120 Mhz clock from a Leo Bodnar Clock Reference into it instead.  Leo's nifty little reference has the ability to create TWO output clock references at the same time from one GPS antenna connected to it.  I had it working providing 120 MHz and 10 MHz output within about 5 minutes after it arrived in the post today.

It took me about an hour (CAREFULLY) removing the on board xtal on the Spyverter.  I really don't recommend doing this the way I did it.  In fact if you plan to do something like this I'd recommend contacting the airpsy/spyverter folks and ask them for a board with no xtal on it at all.  It's NOT EASY, and in fact I feel lucky to have managed to get it removed without damaging the board or components.  I suppose if I'd had a SMT de-solder station it would have been simple.  But I don't.

Here are some photo's of how I accomplished this in my setup:






Right side SMA is the new one I added


After this is all done it's ready to test.  I attached the 120 MHz reference line from the GPSDO to the new SMA port on the Spyverter, and connected everything else up normally.

When I was done, I started up HDSDR and discovered that when I went to calibrate it all, it was spot on.  

I didn't need ANY offset at all.  

NOW THAT IS A FIRST FOR ME!

So now I'm just testing things to see if there will be any drift noticed.  So far I haven't seen any at all.  


UPDATE Jan 24, 2016:



It's now 10 days later since I set this up.  Frequency hasn't drifted in any noticeable way at all.  I'd call this success.


Saturday, January 2, 2016

New/OLD Power Line Noise 2016-01-02

The past few days it's been cold and dry here in Missouri.  Seems a new crop of power line noise likes to start up in these conditions.  From my QTH it peaks about 50 degrees.  When I turn off the internal preamp and use IPO1 I can just detect it on the S meter.  When I use Amp2 on the FTDX-5000 (preamp #2 on) it's about S9.  

The weather has been COLD around freezing (31F as I write this), and very dry atmosphere the past 3-4 days.  Skies are mostly clear.

Here's what it looks like in HDSDR (AM MODE)


Note (STRONG 120Hz and harmonics 180, 240...)

Here's what it sounds like:



After some review of Google Earth, and some drive testing I've found a line of poles that seem to fall in the correct azimuth (50 Degrees from my tower).


Here are some pictures of the poles I've ID's so far.  The poles with numbers shown above exhibited ULTRASOUND (40 KHz) arc'ing noise as well as 400 MHz Power Line Noise (AM) during this drive test.  AM 1.7 MHz also had a VERY STRONG (ON/OFF) Power Line Noise exhibited as well, however, I was unable to track that one down due to it's nature.  It sounded like some sort of ON and OFF semi-randomly.  It's unrelated to the primary noise I was tracking down in this drive test though.  (I'll revisit that one soon).

Pole # 570236







Pole# 570252


Pole # 570244



(Ultrasound TOP insulators, road-most was the worst)

COMPLAINT LOG:

  1. Attempted to contact Ameren UE (800-552-7583) @ 2:26PM 2016-01-02 however they're not available during non-business hours for non-emergency issues.  I'll try again 2016-01-04 on Monday.
  2. Contacted Ameren and filed a report/complaint 2016-01-04 12:30PM.  I forgot to get ask for the dang ticket number.  So we'll see how this goes.  Normally they send a service truck out within a few hours to discuss things, and then within a few weeks the RFI team arrive, then a few weeks later they start work on repairs.   So first person I talk to I'll get the ticket number.  Or I'll call back and get the number.  
    1. The last time I called in a request like this it got a little messed up on their end.  I was told they were in process of changing staff and their procedures at that time, so hopefully this will go more smoothly this time around.  Ameren has ALWAYS been very responsive, it's just a matter of being a little bit patient with them.  They've always been very curtious and understanding in the past.








Sunday, December 27, 2015

YoctoAzEl - Running on a PIPO X9 (micro win10 pc)

So a few weeks ago I discovered these nifty little Kiosk type Micro PC's made by PIPO.  I found one on Amazon.com for about $180 it has Windows 10 (Home) preinstalled no additional licensing required.  It runs just like a normal Windows 10 PC would on a small scale.  

It has more than enough system resources to be a perfect little TOUCH SCREEN desktop device to replace my old Rotor Controller.  And it can run 24/7 without requiring all the power hungry-ness of a normal computer.

It arrived today (Sunday!  what? ok cool).  I unboxed, plugged in power and a network cable on the same private network my desktop was plugged into which runs to the Yocto-Ethernet up on the tower, and then connected to the Yocto-3D.  (see other posts on this blog for details on that stuff).  I setup the WiFi also to get Windows updates and what-not.

I then downloaded my YoctoAzEl app from github, and ran it.  And...wha lah, it just works!  Wow!  Coolness.

I have some application changes to make to accomodate my app on a TOUCH SCREEN a little better, but for the most part it works right out of the box.

Here's a little demo first view of the PIPO X9 running YoctoAzEl.